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Advancing The Ignition Timing

 

 

 

 

 

    6-8 hp at all rpm

Driveability

Mileage

 

 

    This modification is for a 'Static Advance'.

 

    It will advance the Ignition Timing in all gears, through all RPM ranges.

 

    I have used this modification on my A1   ZX12-R,

 

with all the mods stated on My Bike Page for 15,000 miles,

 

    and have had no problems.

 

But I will say, 'I use UK, 95 Octane Unleaded Fuel'.

 

Please bear this in mind when advancing

 

    the ignition to maximum that the 'Slots' will allow.

 

Which is about 6 degrees.

 

    I will find some more info regarding 'Octane Ratings',

 

    because I know that the US and Europe measure them differently.

 

 

Update - Fuel Octane

 

 

In America/Canada the service stations use the Pump Octane Number or PON rather
than RON. this is the average of RON and MON and gives a much better
grade, and is also why the American gas/petrol always seems not as good as our
gas/petrol, when in fact it is is the same.

Below is an approximate comparison chart.

 

UK -  'RON' Octane Numbers

 

US/Canada - 'PON' Octane Numbers

 

 

UK   US
     

RON

MON

PON

90

83

86.6

92

85

88.5

95

87

91

96

88

92

98

90

94

100

 91.5

95.8

105 95 100

110

 99

104.5

 

 

Abbreviation Definition Notes
RON Research Octane Number UK, Europe, South Africa & Australia
MON Motor Octane Number Motor sport applications. Measured under more severe conditionsthan RON (higher revs etc). Usually 8-10 units lower than the RON.
RdON Road Octane Number Average of RON & MON. Usually 4-5 units lower than the RON. USA, Canada
AKI Ant Knock Index Average of RON & MON. Usually 4-5 units lower than the RON. USA, Canada
PON Pump Octane Number Average of RON & MON. Usually 4-5 units lower than the RON. USA, Canada
(R + M )/2   Average of RON & MON. Usually 4-5 units lower than the RON. USA, Canada

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    Remove the RH fairing half and the RH engine cover.

 

    Disconnect the Ignition Pick-up Coil, electrical connector.

 

    Study all the pictures below for more information, before

    starting any work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    Stuff a rag in the case to block any passages into the crank case.

 

    You don't want any debris going in there !!

 

 

 

    Unbolt the Ignition Pick-up Coil from the bike,

 

the pickup is the black device with the 2 wires going to it.

 

    The rubber grommet in the crankcase may be 'glued in' with sealant.

 

    Best to remove the grommet to remove top bolt.

   

 

 

 

    You will notice that the mount for the pickup has 2 built-in "dowels" on the backside.

    These need to be filed or ground off flat.

 

    You are going to move the pickup coil 'Counter Clock Wise' or UP from its old position.

 

    So carefully elongate the bolt holes with a rat tail file or a dremmel tool.

 

    Remember to elongate the holes in the correct direction so as to allow

    you to be able to push the pickup coil "UP" when installed, on the engine.

 

    Elongate the slot and leave about .032 wall to the edge of the

black plastic portion on the metal base in which it is mounted.

 

    Slot the other end the approximate same amount.

 

    Now clean off ALL the metal chips and filings.

 

    Its a magnetic coil so they stick to it. After you clean it off. Clean it one more time!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    You will notice, the factory screw will interfere and hit the black coil housing

 

    and limit the amount of travel that you now have for adjustability.

 

    Go to a metric hardware supplier and buy a 5mm x .8mm x 12mm Socket Head Cap Screw or Allen Bolt

 

    and use it on the top mounting hole. I used them in both.

 

    I fitted a small 'Spring Washer' behind the top Allen Bolt and 'Flat Washer' behind the bottom Allen Bolt,

 

    so the Ignition Pick-Up Coil didn't 'move' when I tightened them up.

 

 

 

 

    If you want to be conservative just move the coil up a small amount.

 

    For the best performance move it all the way up.

 

 

 

 

 

    Set the rotor to coil clearance.

Thatís a measurement between the tooth of the ignition rotor and the pickup coil.

 

    It should be about .015"-.020"

 

Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar, or 17mm spanner to align the Rotor Tooth with the Ignition Pick-Up Coil.

 

    Once the coil is moved up and the rotor to coil clearance is set.

 

    REMOVE THE RAG

 

    You can use a 'Small' amount of sealant around the rubber grommet when refitting,

 

    and refit the Electrical Connector.

 

    Put the RH engine cover back on, along with the RH fairing panel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    My Opinion

 

    Yes this made a difference

 

The throttle response was definitely better.

 

 

 

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